This guide to Dublin features entertaining accounts of all the attractions, from Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral to vibrant Temple Bar. It also gives insider's reviews of the best accommodation, restaurants, clubs and drinking spots, as well as the pick of the day-trips, from the gardens of Powerscourt Estate to the remarkable prehistoric tombs of the Boyne Valley.
EXCERPT
"WHERE TO VISIT
Central Dublin is easy enough to navigate – it's fairly compact, and you're likely to make most of your explorations either on foot or via short bus hops. One obvious axis is formed by the River Liffey, running from west to east and dividing the city into two regions of very distinct character (the northside, poorer and less developed than its southside neighbour), each of which has a strong allegiance among its inhabitants. The other main axis is the north–south one formed by Grafton Street and Westmoreland Street south of the river, running into O'Connell Street to the north. The centre as a whole is bordered by two waterways: the Royal Canal to the north, and the Grand Canal to the south.
The majority of the better-known attractions are south of the river, and for many visitors, the city's heart lies around the best of what is left of Georgian Dublin: the elegant set pieces of Fitzwilliam and Merrion squares, where the graceful red-brick houses boast ornate, fan-lighted doors and immaculately kept central gardens, and the wide, decorous open space of St Stephen's Green. The southside is also the setting for the compelling displays of the National Gallery and the National Museum, as well as Trinity College, Dublin's august seat of learning and home of a famous library; Grafton Street, the city's upmarket shopping area; and the Temple Bar area, the in-place for the arts, alternative shopping and socializing. Parallel to the river, Dame Street strings together a handful of historic monuments: the Bank of Ireland, City Hall, Dublin Castle (new home to the glorious collections of the Chester Beatty Library) and Christ Church Cathedral. The tangle of lanes between here and Wood Quay are remnants of the medieval city, though these too are now undergoing renovation in a new development aimed at complementing Temple Bar. South of Christ Church lies the majestic St Patrick's Cathedral, while to the west a drab urban scene unfurls, worth exploring nonetheless for the Guinness Brewery and, slightly further out, the Irish Museum of Modern Art and Kilmainham Gaol."
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